Drilling out Hardned Ready Screw

Topics include, Motorcar Tools & Tooling, Precision Measuring, Materials and their Properties, Electrical discussions related to machine tools, setups, fixtures and jigs and other general word related to apprentice machining.

Moderators: GlennW, Harold_V

Paul

Drilling out Hardned Set Spiral

I have a ready spiral that holds a lock cylinder in a door I bought for my truck restoration. The set screw is rusted in place and someone before me stripped the socket out. The problem is I forgot to remove the set screw with rut beofre I painted the doors. At present any high heat will ruin the paint. I have tried Cobalt drills, Titainium, eyen a Carbide tip masonary bit. Zilch touches it, its to hard.

What do I demand to drill out this set screw so I tin can re tap the hole and replace the set screw ? I have to piece of work through a three/eight" pigsty in the door border to become to the ready screw

Cheers
Paul


J_Tiers

Re: Drilling out Hardned Set Spiral

Post by J_Tiers » Sat April 17, 2004 9:56 pm

Masonry bits are difficult, but dull.

A carbide spade or twist type drill should eat it upward. How large is it?

actually small carbide drills are hard to use w/o breaking them.


User avatar

Jacin
Posts: 1046
Joined: Sat December 21, 2002 12:xiv am
Location: Near Cleveland, Ohio

Re: Drilling out Hardned Gear up Screw

Mail service past Jacin » Sat Apr 17, 2004 xi:59 pm

I was "in the field" one time upgrading a piece of equipment when I broke a 1/four-20 tap in a mild steel frame (three/4" thick metal) - anyways being "far from home" and therefore without my purse of tricks - I ran out the the corner store and bought plain old carbide tipped masonary drill. I used plenty of oil and peradventure even went through a scrap, but somewhen I was able to drill through that hardened tap - which I have to assume is harder than your set up screw. I'd call back I'd try the masonary drill again - they're cheap plenty and are hands sharpened.

Simply thinking out loud once again [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/grinning.gif"%20alt="[/img]


User avatar

sandman2234
Posts: 569
Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2003 3:47 pm
Location: Jacksonville, Fl

Re: Drilling out Hardned Prepare Screw

Postal service past sandman2234 » Sun Apr 18, 2004 1:14 am

Might also think about a left manus twist drill. Makes the durn affair want to back out if yous go it started by the chip grabbing. David from jax

BP 2j vs, SB lathe, Westward& S #4 Turret lathe, Maho 600P


J_Tiers

Re: Drilling out Hardned Set Spiral

Mail service past J_Tiers » Sun April 18, 2004 8:37 am

I was "in the field" one time upgrading a piece of equipment when I broke a 1/4-20 tap in a balmy steel frame (iii/four" thick metal) - anyways existence "far from home" and therefore without my handbag of tricks - I ran out the the corner store and bought manifestly old carbide tipped masonary drill. I used plenty of oil and peradventure even went through a bit, but eventually I was able to drill through that hardened tap - which I have to assume is harder than your set screw. I'd think I'd try the masonary drill again - they're inexpensive enough and are hands sharpened.

Only thinking out loud again [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/grin.gif"%20alt="[/img]

A NEW masonry chip is probably "abrupt".

One that has e'er been used on concrete will probably just slide on metal. I have tried it too.


gmcaoffline

Re: Drilling out Hardned Set up Screw

Post by gmcaoffline » Mon Apr 19, 2004 xi:thirteen am

having had this problem on older machine tools, this is what I found to work:

become a few ( 3 or and so) small carbide burrs that are cylindrical with a drill signal and diamond cutting sides. these are usually a buck or then each at tool sales etc, I use ones nigh i/8 diameter or so. use these in a dremel or similar mitt drilling unit of measurement. exist acreful because they will not accept any side loading and can hands snap off, but htey will cut fine if y'all hold and utilize them correctly. I mostly simply employ a single bit but hand sharpen it with a diamond tool equally presently as it quits cut on the point. takes almost iv-5 sharpenings or bit changes to thou thru a 5/16 setscrew but it goes along well. utilise moderate speed, you tin tell when it is cutting OK and high speed will not assistance at all, just heats things upwards and trashes the edge quickly. when yous have a pigsty att the fashion thru it you can try using an easy-out or you lot tin can cut over to the side at 2 points and split the screw in one-half, then pick out the halves with a dental pick. this means you volition have to cutting into the side threads some but if you are conscientious this will not thing much. use some penetrating oil on the cscrew before you do the drilling, this way any heat generated volition help the oil seep into the spaces and loosen the screw. its better to unsrew it out if you lot can, afterwards yous get the hole drilled in it, rather than cut information technology into pieces.

BTW, many masonry bits are fabricated with a chisel edge askew on both sides, made to shell the cloth into small particles then it can exist pushed out, non to cut it away in a continuous slice like a steel bit cuts. these will create tremendous heat and take lots of force to get them to cutting anything metal. it may be possible to get them to cut a little if they accept a squarish edge on them but this border is non made for cutting metallic well and often does not last long at all. the smaller ones accept this foursquare border, cheque with a magnifier and touch upwardly with a diamond if you are using them not metal. .


User avatar

Jon_Spear
Posts: 87
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 xi:56 am
Location: San Francisco, CA

a unlike tactic (Re: Drilling out Hardned Ready Due south

Post past Jon_Spear » Wednesday April 21, 2004 iv:xxx pm

You lot could also try cementing an allen commuter into the stripped out socket of the set screw.

I would employ 5-infinitesimal epoxy in the stripped out pigsty, and rig a fashion to keep the hex fundamental/driver fixed in place while the epoxy cures. If it doesn't work, so I would go with ane of the other skillful suggestions previously posted.

Good wishes,
Jon Spear
San Francisco, CA
email: jdspear at LBL dot gov


User avatar

Jacin
Posts: 1046
Joined: Sabbatum Dec 21, 2002 12:14 am
Location: Well-nigh Cleveland, Ohio

Re: Drilling out Hardned Set Screw

Mail past Jacin » Wed April 21, 2004 10:06 pm

FWIW the "new" masonary drill I used was in fact relatively abrupt when I started - however when I was washed it was pretty much smoked. I think what was probably happening was that to some extent I was generating a off-white corporeality of heat - resulting in a slight annealing of the tap allowing me to cutting into it with a fairly dull chip. It took a off-white amount of determination - but I was desperate [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/blush.gif"%20alt="[/img]


Preston

Re: Drilling out Hardned Prepare Screw

Mail service by Preston » Thu Apr 22, 2004 vii:58 pm

I use to remove hardened plugs from carb adjusters with a carbide burr (ball shaped) that would sort of drill and grind. many auto techs use this method for cleaved exhaust studs. [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/flash.gif"%20alt="[/img]